March April 22nd: Gah! So for some reason I thought it would be a good idea to make plans last night with John to run in the mornin'. At 10am? Up Kosciusko Mount? Not only was it not anyones birthday (a Gtown XC reference) so we had to run up all the hills but we definitely got lost. The view was spectacular but we payed for it with blood, sweat and tears. There was one point when I thought I would have to use wooden steaks to get us up over this cliff - but thats probably just cuz i'm pretty prissy. Apparently on our usual stomping grounds a marathon and a circus were taking place. As they usually do. After running Neil and I ate lunch, went to the mall :-) for last minute buys pre-Hungary/Romania, ice cream, and now here.
Post Sunday- I'll have limited access to internet until I get back so all 2 people who read my blog regularly; mom and myself will just have to wait for my return to Krakow April 1st (ish?)
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Weekend Update
Friday March 20
Friday morning went on a run. Had class at 2:30 which I had yet to prepare for. So I sent Niel(ski) off on his own for exploring. He visited Wawel Hill, ... other places (?), and seemed to have a good time if not exhausted from wandering around/not sleeping for the past few days. I would direct you to his facebook pics for a better sense of what he did. We met up at cloth hall at 4:30 and had some ice cream at a nearby café. Annoyingly enough, it seems like most of the museums/monuments close at 3, 4, or 5. So, we just missed going to St. Mary's. Took Niel grocery shopping. We decided to be daring so Matt, Neil, John and I headed to Sakura sushi. They had this odd set up where there was seating around a water moat holding these little wooden ships carrying sushi. You grabbed what looked appetizing and they charged you for how many plates you accumulated. Certain colored plates cost more. Its hard to stop eating there, which I guess is the point, as delicious sushi passes under your nose. Next, John took us to A dog in the fog, an English style pub beloved by his ex-patriot friends. Later, I made everyone join me at RESPECT hiphop/r&b club for dancing! WOW! that was "Fucking positive" as one guys flashing belt indicated. Full of broskis and breakdancers. Terrible music, 3 requests for soldier boy, strawberry juice and vodka made for a pretty good night. Some prissy guy from Harvard needed some prodding to start dancing :-) Just kidding, but the Americans were definetly the most flamboyant dancers there thanks to two silly Grinnellians.
Saturday March 21
Woke up pretty late so didn't have too much time to go to various spots. Took Neil to the Jewish Quarter, Ethnographic Museum and Chocolate
Gallery where we got hot chocolate. The Ethnographic Museum was a really fun museum. Sure, we played around (pics) but I really enjoyed learning about Polish folk life. After the museum and chocolate gallery we returned to the dorm and Matt was surprised by his cousin and cousin's friends. Apparently today is the first day of Spring in Poland and they celebrate this day by not doing work and drinking "cheap" wine all day. That would explain why Neil and I saw visibly drunk men wandering around Krakow at 5pm, and that one dude who stopped pooped his pants, and headed back into the tavern. Nice. Neil, John, and I ate at Bar Smak before heading for a bar. Matt, 2 Pawels and Lucas (Matt's cousin) joined us later pretty far ahead of us (way way far ahead of us) in terms of drinking. Lucas and the Pawels took us to this one communist-kitsch bar that was packed. The dj's booth was seated in half of a Soviet truck. Lets see. One guy tried to pick me up, then pick a fight with John, then pick a fight with Neil, then made friends with the Pawels and Matt. This bro-ski was wearing a Georgio Armani t, totally juiced up, huge muscles, and would bait Neil with phrases like "Polish People are stooopid, right?
Neil: "What? No!"
Bro-ski: "City?"
Neil: "Boston"
Bro-ski: "No, schity"
Neil: "I'm from Boston"
Just trying to start a fight. Many silly things happened, we both learned Polish and taught English phrases like "cockblock" to our Polish friends. Neil, John, and I left "early" so we missed the fight that broke out later resulting in Matt needing stitches on his lip. Pic below (One of the Pawels and I)
Friday morning went on a run. Had class at 2:30 which I had yet to prepare for. So I sent Niel(ski) off on his own for exploring. He visited Wawel Hill, ... other places (?), and seemed to have a good time if not exhausted from wandering around/not sleeping for the past few days. I would direct you to his facebook pics for a better sense of what he did. We met up at cloth hall at 4:30 and had some ice cream at a nearby café. Annoyingly enough, it seems like most of the museums/monuments close at 3, 4, or 5. So, we just missed going to St. Mary's. Took Niel grocery shopping. We decided to be daring so Matt, Neil, John and I headed to Sakura sushi. They had this odd set up where there was seating around a water moat holding these little wooden ships carrying sushi. You grabbed what looked appetizing and they charged you for how many plates you accumulated. Certain colored plates cost more. Its hard to stop eating there, which I guess is the point, as delicious sushi passes under your nose. Next, John took us to A dog in the fog, an English style pub beloved by his ex-patriot friends. Later, I made everyone join me at RESPECT hiphop/r&b club for dancing! WOW! that was "Fucking positive" as one guys flashing belt indicated. Full of broskis and breakdancers. Terrible music, 3 requests for soldier boy, strawberry juice and vodka made for a pretty good night. Some prissy guy from Harvard needed some prodding to start dancing :-) Just kidding, but the Americans were definetly the most flamboyant dancers there thanks to two silly Grinnellians.

Saturday March 21
Woke up pretty late so didn't have too much time to go to various spots. Took Neil to the Jewish Quarter, Ethnographic Museum and Chocolate
Gallery where we got hot chocolate. The Ethnographic Museum was a really fun museum. Sure, we played around (pics) but I really enjoyed learning about Polish folk life. After the museum and chocolate gallery we returned to the dorm and Matt was surprised by his cousin and cousin's friends. Apparently today is the first day of Spring in Poland and they celebrate this day by not doing work and drinking "cheap" wine all day. That would explain why Neil and I saw visibly drunk men wandering around Krakow at 5pm, and that one dude who stopped pooped his pants, and headed back into the tavern. Nice. Neil, John, and I ate at Bar Smak before heading for a bar. Matt, 2 Pawels and Lucas (Matt's cousin) joined us later pretty far ahead of us (way way far ahead of us) in terms of drinking. Lucas and the Pawels took us to this one communist-kitsch bar that was packed. The dj's booth was seated in half of a Soviet truck. Lets see. One guy tried to pick me up, then pick a fight with John, then pick a fight with Neil, then made friends with the Pawels and Matt. This bro-ski was wearing a Georgio Armani t, totally juiced up, huge muscles, and would bait Neil with phrases like "Polish People are stooopid, right?Neil: "What? No!"
Bro-ski: "City?"
Neil: "Boston"
Bro-ski: "No, schity"
Neil: "I'm from Boston"
Just trying to start a fight. Many silly things happened, we both learned Polish and taught English phrases like "cockblock" to our Polish friends. Neil, John, and I left "early" so we missed the fight that broke out later resulting in Matt needing stitches on his lip. Pic below (One of the Pawels and I)
Neil In Krakow!

Thursday March 19th!
I'm so lucky to have such adventurous, curious, fun friends! During Grinnell's spring break rather than traveling to Costa Rica, Hawaii, or St. Tropez Neil came to visit me in snowy Krakow. Ok, to each their own. Neil has taken Russian for 3 years so he has quickly picked up Polish pronunciation and vocab and is more than capable of wandering around Krakow on his own. Almost feel a little useless here..but am glad for the company and the familiar face. But mostly the gossip. Oh! The Gossip. Thursday Neil was pretty beat from his trips to Chicago and Dublin before arriving in Krakow. I had class so he took a nap while Matt and I went to the Archeological museum of Krakow. Very interesting. I knew nothing about the Slavic tribes until our lesson with Pani Beata. Apparently Celts helped form Slavic genetics and culture. Huh. After class I ran over to Massolit to buy some books for my research project and then Matt, Neil and I went to Jarema. A fancy, but still relatively inexpensive, Eastern Polish restaurant. Later, we went to Harris Jazz Club which has nightly "Euro Fusion?" concerts starting at 9pm. "Hey sexy, you sexy, can I get your number" repeat 10 times. Took some pretty hiliarious pictures. SLEEP! Pic: Neil in the Statue of Eros Bendato on Market Square
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Transylvania
So, this is taken word for word (but emphasis added for comedic effect) from our guidebook on Transylvania.
" the water is not safe to drink. only drink bottled water...which you won't be able to find. only coke and fanta"
"It is also not safe to eat or buy food ANYWHERE!" we will provide you with breakfast and dinner.
"It will be a great temptation to go to the forest in the evening but I have to warn you about the bears that make these trips LIFE DANGEROUS. the greatest bear population of europe can be found in the carpathian mountains. please ask for advice if you can go for a trip to the forest or not.
"Please exchange money in Budapest as the Romanians have been known to steal money from one's bank account"
woah. all this just to see dracula. and gymnasts. that is if i can resist going into the forest.
" the water is not safe to drink. only drink bottled water...which you won't be able to find. only coke and fanta"
"It is also not safe to eat or buy food ANYWHERE!" we will provide you with breakfast and dinner.
"It will be a great temptation to go to the forest in the evening but I have to warn you about the bears that make these trips LIFE DANGEROUS. the greatest bear population of europe can be found in the carpathian mountains. please ask for advice if you can go for a trip to the forest or not.
"Please exchange money in Budapest as the Romanians have been known to steal money from one's bank account"
woah. all this just to see dracula. and gymnasts. that is if i can resist going into the forest.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Rachel in Krakow!
March 13-15: My friend Rachel from Grinnell came to visit me this weekend. She is currently studying abroad in Stockholm, and I hope to visit her soon to return the favor :-). Below: Wawel 
March 13 Friday: Thank God Rachel kept her head and was able to figure out how to meet me at the central railway station! Rachel had to borrow someone else's phone to get a hold of me! Grr.. I still can't figure out how to make international calls. Anyway, all ended well! It was so great to see her again. She got off the train, walked around trapped in Galeria Krakowska (one of Krakow's two malls), and once we escaped ate lunch at Chimera in old city. Rachel came with me to take my Polish midsemester test with Pani Jagoda. That was pretty hilarious. Pani Jagoda "helped" me along with my test. Whenever I started to make a mistake she would stop me and ask me if thats really what I wanted to do. Anyways, afterwards Rachel and I came back to our room to settle down and allow her to drop of her stuff. We then took a tour of the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz. We saw 3 synagogues, the Jewish cementary, as well as the town center. By the time we returned to our room it was late and we had a chance to take a rest before dinner. Matt joined us at Miod Malina (Honey Rasberry) an Italian/Polish restaurant. I had the most delicious traditonal Polish soup "Zurek Polski" this sour rye soup with white sausage, egg, and served in a bread bowl. Immediately after dinner, we joined our Swattie friends, John, Robert, and Judith (WOAH a real group!) at Alchemia in Kazimierz. Again, a smokey underground bar that was converted from a home and still bears some resemblance to a traditional Polish apartment. We danced for a couple of songs on the "dance floor" aka empty space in the bar. Rachel and I walked home early on since we would have an early morning. But the party continued at Alchemia and then moved on to another club.
March 14 Saturday: Woah! John actually joined Rachel and I for a run this morning. W
e were thinking about running up to the Koschuzko Mount but instead ran around Park Jordana and Polwsie Zwierzynieckie. Breakfast of nutella, bread, and banana! Rachel and I decided what we would do for the day. Collegium Maius (pic. left), Wawel, Czartoryski Museum, hot chocolate, food, pictures! It was a wonderful day in Krakow perfect for touristy things. Bright, warm, and sunny. I hadn't been to the Czartoryski Museum yet so it was an interesting find. Although small houses a decent, varied collection including Leondardo da Vinci's Lady with an Ermine. Pic below.
At night Rachel and I joined up with the Swatties and John for a cabaret concert in the basement of Café Camelot and left early (eye roll) for some eats upstairs. After wandering around all day we were pretty beat and called it a night early. Hopefully I hadn't been a depressing tour guide for Rachel as Polish history tends to lean towards the macabre. But I hope to see her soon at the end (?) of April. It was a wonderful weekend! Now, back to work.
Below: Rachel at Wawel
March 13 Friday: Thank God Rachel kept her head and was able to figure out how to meet me at the central railway station! Rachel had to borrow someone else's phone to get a hold of me! Grr.. I still can't figure out how to make international calls. Anyway, all ended well! It was so great to see her again. She got off the train, walked around trapped in Galeria Krakowska (one of Krakow's two malls), and once we escaped ate lunch at Chimera in old city. Rachel came with me to take my Polish midsemester test with Pani Jagoda. That was pretty hilarious. Pani Jagoda "helped" me along with my test. Whenever I started to make a mistake she would stop me and ask me if thats really what I wanted to do. Anyways, afterwards Rachel and I came back to our room to settle down and allow her to drop of her stuff. We then took a tour of the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz. We saw 3 synagogues, the Jewish cementary, as well as the town center. By the time we returned to our room it was late and we had a chance to take a rest before dinner. Matt joined us at Miod Malina (Honey Rasberry) an Italian/Polish restaurant. I had the most delicious traditonal Polish soup "Zurek Polski" this sour rye soup with white sausage, egg, and served in a bread bowl. Immediately after dinner, we joined our Swattie friends, John, Robert, and Judith (WOAH a real group!) at Alchemia in Kazimierz. Again, a smokey underground bar that was converted from a home and still bears some resemblance to a traditional Polish apartment. We danced for a couple of songs on the "dance floor" aka empty space in the bar. Rachel and I walked home early on since we would have an early morning. But the party continued at Alchemia and then moved on to another club.
March 14 Saturday: Woah! John actually joined Rachel and I for a run this morning. W
At night Rachel and I joined up with the Swatties and John for a cabaret concert in the basement of Café Camelot and left early (eye roll) for some eats upstairs. After wandering around all day we were pretty beat and called it a night early. Hopefully I hadn't been a depressing tour guide for Rachel as Polish history tends to lean towards the macabre. But I hope to see her soon at the end (?) of April. It was a wonderful weekend! Now, back to work.Thursday, March 12, 2009
Thursday March 12th- So I've been pretty bad about keeping up with the blog. Hmm... Tuesday and Wednesday? Well, Wednesday night the Swatties, Matt, myself, and our new friend went out for vegetarian at Green Way our little group..is still little.. but of great quality. It sounds like everyone has interesting ideas of how to keep ourselves busy, what are the interesting happenings of Krakow. Today had 1/2 of midSEMS tomorrow the Polish midsem. And ooh! More importantly, my Grinnell friend Rachel will be coming tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll be her "Jewish Krakow" tour guide :-) and hopefully see more sights that Krakow has to offer. I think we'll be heading off to Auschwitz Saturday? I'm pretty loathe to go 2 times in 2 weeks, but I can't send her there by herself. She's studying abroad in Sweden so I hope to get a chance to visit her in April and have her return the favor ;-)
Monday, March 9, 2009
Kazimierz and Art Nouveau Tour
Monday March 9:
The Berlin Group and the Krakow Group met today for two tours: the first of which took place in the morning the Kazimierz Tour and the second in the afternoon, the art nouveau. Although Kazimierz has never been a solely Jewish town -Christians too have lived there since its founding and Jews lived outside of Kazimierz- within Kazimierz there is a Jewish Quarter where the majority of Krakow's Jews lived and created their own unique
Later, after running and Polish lesson, we met back up with the Berliners to see this gathering grounds for artists during the art nouveau movement. Since Krakow was a conquered city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire art nouveau was quickly introduced and adopted. They met in this quaint cafe off of Florianska Street where one would never think to look for it. Its decorated in dark forest green with rich wooden tables and chairs. They used to host cabare and satirical puppet shows here too. The owner, who retrospectively glorified himself as a patron of the arts, really just gave the artists paper and pen so that they would stop their "graffiti" on his café's walls.
Auschwitz-Birkenau
Sunday March 8
Met with Berlin group early and headed to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Took about 45 minutes to get there from Krakow. I thought after attending so many classes and museums, seeing so many films, reading so many books, etc. focusing on the Holocaust and what happened at Auschwitz that I would just emotionally crumble when I finally got there. I had built Auschwitz up in my mind so much that I was actually trembling when we entered the camp; I was afraid of what I would see. Rather than leaving angry or in a dark place like I had leaving other exhibitions I just felt empty. Its a hard feeling to recover from. Birkenau is just enormous. Our guide took us to the top of the watchtower so that we had a view of the entire grounds. She said the camp could contain 250 (did I hear her right?) football fields and at its height 100,000 occupants. Although the grounds are extensive, the prisoners were cramped in these horrible stables. Theres not much to say about Auschwitz-Birkenau. I took 3 pictures, and felt very uncomfortable while taking them. It felt inappropriate, so I won't show them online.
Met with Berlin group early and headed to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Took about 45 minutes to get there from Krakow. I thought after attending so many classes and museums, seeing so many films, reading so many books, etc. focusing on the Holocaust and what happened at Auschwitz that I would just emotionally crumble when I finally got there. I had built Auschwitz up in my mind so much that I was actually trembling when we entered the camp; I was afraid of what I would see. Rather than leaving angry or in a dark place like I had leaving other exhibitions I just felt empty. Its a hard feeling to recover from. Birkenau is just enormous. Our guide took us to the top of the watchtower so that we had a view of the entire grounds. She said the camp could contain 250 (did I hear her right?) football fields and at its height 100,000 occupants. Although the grounds are extensive, the prisoners were cramped in these horrible stables. Theres not much to say about Auschwitz-Birkenau. I took 3 pictures, and felt very uncomfortable while taking them. It felt inappropriate, so I won't show them online.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
March 6-7
Friday: We get to host the Lexia in Berlin group for the next couple of days! A wonderful group of 9 kids from all over America. Matt and I finally found a restaurant that would take in 11 hungry Americans called "Pod Wawelem" (under Wawel) which was pretty touristy; they played the accordian, polka, etc. Most were pretty tired from the 10 hr. train ride to get to Krakow so they went back to their hostel to sleep. 3 came out with Matt and I to see more of Krakow at night.
Saturday: Good day! Woke up early for a run. Went to the Manggha Japanese Museum with my Swarthmore friends while Matt caught up with his Williams friend who is with the Lexia in Berlin group. After Manggha, my friends and I went for coffee in Kazimierz, found some street performers who played with fire, and went for dinner. Ending the night early because tomorrow Matt and I must get up early 6:30?ish? to meet up with the Berliners and head to Auschwitz. I've been nervous to go to Auschwitz for some time and I can't believe that tomorrow we are finally going.
Photos: Top Right: friends at Manggha Museum. Bottom Left: Street Performers on Market Sq.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Whoopsies
Thursday March 5th-
So I was incapacitated the past two days after a little slip-up. My back was cut up and (somehow related or perhaps unrelated) I also had these overwhelming waves of nausea. So, just sat around my dorm recovering after I went to see a doctor. Today I am much better and even went out for Chinese with friends. Tomorrow the Lexia in Berlin Group comes to Krakow, so we will join up with them and show them around.
So I was incapacitated the past two days after a little slip-up. My back was cut up and (somehow related or perhaps unrelated) I also had these overwhelming waves of nausea. So, just sat around my dorm recovering after I went to see a doctor. Today I am much better and even went out for Chinese with friends. Tomorrow the Lexia in Berlin Group comes to Krakow, so we will join up with them and show them around.
Monday, March 2, 2009
So..Vienna
Friday Feb 27- (kinda, technically) Monday March 2:
without the excuse of showing me around. Vienna summer palace -> saw the outside of the oldest zoo in the world -> donkeys!! until Tim refocused my priorites to the
Summer castle and surrounding man-made splendor -> went shopping in the sunshine at the local,
huge outdoor flea market/fresh produce/restaurant strip aka Naschmarkt. As Tim put it, sometimes the displays are really quite impressive. Other times, it looks like people just found a spot and threw down there shit in a trash bag for us to riffle through. The actual produce was of great quality and they actually sold (at one stand) my favorite candy in the whole world. "Fill that candy bag up. Don't be shy there!". I had a hankering for Vietnamese food so we got some soup and visited Tim's friends in there apartment. 7 music students share this beautiful, plush, apartment. Very spoiled. It was Kurt's birthday so we crashed the party and celebrated with our hosts! All pics from Schönbrunn Summer Palace
Sunday: Poor Tim! I urged him to take me to 3 last destinations before I left that night (so I thought). (1) Belvedere (2) Hundertwasserhaus (3) Secession Building and a (4) on his list a real Viennese café. We only saw the first floor of the Belvedere which included many beautiful Klimts including the Kiss. Who really caught my attention, however, was Egon Schiele an artist who I've never heard of before.
Ran out of the museum to Hundertwasserhaus which Tim absolutely loved and I couldn't help comparing to Gaudi. On our way to the Secession building Tim couldn't help himself but stop at an authentic "off the tourist map" underbelly of Vienna. There is this one subway stop (whose
name I'm forgetting) where although the hussle of commuters and commercialism rages on: heroin addicts wander the halls with this glazed, empty expression. It was truly a haunting sight to see these pale, zombies engage in drug deals right in front of us. Some addicts mouths were covered in blue- a sign that they were taking methadone to help them recover- which only added to the chilling sight. So..........., then we went to the secession building which in stark contrast to the rich, ornate, immense Hofburg palaces, was very modest in only white and gold and minimally decorated. The overall effect was very beautiful. We didn't go inside (for lack of time and euro) so I'll have to visit again. Next, we went to Tim's favorite café to talk, drink real Viennese coffee, and enjoy Sachertorte (a chocolate cake with apricot marmalade). Pics: Center: Four Trees by Egon Schiele. Left: Tim and Hundertwasserhaus
Sunday Night: A fairly ridiculous tale of how silly I am. Got to airport. Flight cancelled. Panic sets in. Rather than just staying put and accepting the complimentary hotel room I decided I would try to figure out where Tim lived. So, got back on bus, tried calling him. tried to figure out where his apartment was. Neither worked. So I ended up waiting at the bus stop to take me back to the airport and accept (duh!) the very very nice hotel accomodations. Of course when I'm stressed I eat chocolate. So, I'm sitting at the bus stop late at night when this girl my age looks like s
he's on the brink of tears. She asks me for money, which I don't really have other than the money I need to get back on the bus to the airport. I spare some change, she breaks down and tells me about her life. Yikes. What a story! gave her what remained of my chocolate bar. Back at airport everything worked out perfectly. Room with dinner and breakfast. Silly silly maggie. Pic: Bye Bye Vienna Secession Building.
Friday: Rolled in style into the Westbanhof train station to be met by Tim!! My friend from Grinnell who took me in and showed me around. A true New Yorker, he had already mastered the entire tram/train/subway/bus system of Vienna. Ha, we barely walked. So, by the time I had dropped my stuff off at his apartment (which he shares with one other American and an Austrian) we went out to an authentic underground Vienniese wine cellar. We, of course, dinned on local specialties: veal wienerschnitzel with lemon, pancake soup (beef broth with shreds of pancake), pickled salad,
and toast. Live music was playing. Returned to his apartment to change into my outfit (a sequined mini skirt) for we were going out dancing at a famous New Wave party held every last Friday of the month. So crowded. So sweaty. Such fun! C'mon dancing to 80s pop! Tim was definetly in his element and his neon glasses! Caught the night bus and, since I was so hungry from my 'workout', had my first wurstel gushing with cheese..surprise! yikes.Right: Vienna Opera which was playing Carmen but we were unable to go. Left: New Wave Dance Club
Saturday: Gave Tim an excuse to do all the touristy things he hadn't gotten around to doing yet/too embarrassed to do Sunday: Poor Tim! I urged him to take me to 3 last destinations before I left that night (so I thought). (1) Belvedere (2) Hundertwasserhaus (3) Secession Building and a (4) on his list a real Viennese café. We only saw the first floor of the Belvedere which included many beautiful Klimts including the Kiss. Who really caught my attention, however, was Egon Schiele an artist who I've never heard of before.
Ran out of the museum to Hundertwasserhaus which Tim absolutely loved and I couldn't help comparing to Gaudi. On our way to the Secession building Tim couldn't help himself but stop at an authentic "off the tourist map" underbelly of Vienna. There is this one subway stop (whose Sunday Night: A fairly ridiculous tale of how silly I am. Got to airport. Flight cancelled. Panic sets in. Rather than just staying put and accepting the complimentary hotel room I decided I would try to figure out where Tim lived. So, got back on bus, tried calling him. tried to figure out where his apartment was. Neither worked. So I ended up waiting at the bus stop to take me back to the airport and accept (duh!) the very very nice hotel accomodations. Of course when I'm stressed I eat chocolate. So, I'm sitting at the bus stop late at night when this girl my age looks like s
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